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Throughout the City we have designated walks that take in some of our historic interest points. These include walks through Queens Park and surrounds, East Creek Park & Paddington Estate, Mort Estate, Caledonian Estate, Newtown, Russell Street; and our cultural and legal precincts.
The details below explain the history of the area and include many of the prominent buildings scattered throughout the city. Brochures of each of these walks are available at customer service centres and visitor information centres in the region.
Allow approximately 30 minutes at a brisk pace or about an hour at a leisurely pace to complete this walk.
Browse the interactive online map.
In the 1870s the land from the gaol to Herries Street, between Burstow and Lindsay Streets, was used by the Caledonian Society for its sports. The name was retained when the first residential land sales took place in 1904. We hope you will enjoy your walk through this historic area with streets named Stirling, Burns and Bruce reflecting the city’s Scottish connections.
The gaol opened in 1864 in time for the first execution, which was the hanging of Alexander Ritchie. Ritchie was convicted of robbery under arms and murder. The gaol closed in 1904 and the main building was converted into a hall for the Austral Association.
Acknowledgement: Thanks to Eleanor and Peter Cullen, Beris Broderick, John Clements, Bob Dansie, Stephanie Keays, Ivan McDonald and the residents of the Caledonian Estate.
The Mort Estate is Toowoomba’s oldest subdivision. It was established in 1862 when well-known colonial identity Thomas Sutcliffe Mort offered it for sale in 100 allotments.
Allow approximately 1 hour at a brisk pace or over an hour at a leisurely pace to complete this walk.
Starting at the Railway Station (Railway Street) walk up Taylor Street and turn right into Mill Street.
No. 35 Gowrie Street (see image on right) is a timber cottage with the distinctive high-pitched roof, wide weatherboards and curved iron verandah roof that were typical of pre-1900 Toowoomba cottages. It was owned in 1917 by Mr Baxter who was a railway worker.
Refreshment rooms opened at the station in 1902 and the Honour Roll Pavilion for World War I railway men was added in 1918. There is also a World War II air raid shelter set into the bank opposite the station entrance.
Acknowledgement: Thanks to Ros Crank, Fiona Darroch and Janice Swannell for compiling the information and Val Russell for the cottage illustrations. Sketch of Seperation Hotel reproduced with kind permission of the artist, Bob Dansie.
Russell Street was originally known as Farm Road. It was a dirt track used by squatters from the west to transport their sheep and cattle to Brisbane for sale and return with supplies to their properties. By 1854 it was renamed Russell Street after Henry Stuart Russell. Russell was an early Toowoomba resident whose various occupations included grazier, explorer, politician, author and gentleman.
Commence the walk at the railway station.
Acknowledgement: Thanks to John Clements for preparing the text and Ivy Lindsay for providing the drawings.
Around 1858, George Thorn, an Ipswich merchant bought land known as Thorn’s Paddock. By 1861 another landowner, John Shipman, had established a reputation as an outstanding farmer. In 1865 Newtown was surveyed as town lots and offered for sale, making it one of Toowoomba’s older suburbs. In 1879, when Gowrie was gazetted as a shire, it contained much of the present Newtown. The Shire of Gowrie was abolished in 1913 and part became the Town of Newtown. It remained a town in its own right from 1913 until 1917, the first Mayor being Alderman James Hagan.
Allow approximately 45 minutes at a brisk pace or over an hour at a leisurely pace to complete this walk. A self-directed drive is included as point 29.
The walk begins on the opposite side of Holberton Street from Newtown Park’s State Rose Garden.Walk towards Campbell Street.
Self-directed drive suggested places of interest:• Weetwood – 423-427 Tor Street• Ascot – 15 Newmarket Street• Tor – 7 Devon Street• Clifford Park racecourse – 37 Hursley Road• Newtown State Primary School – 24 Albert Street• Old picture theatre, shops & hotel – 65 Anzac Avenue• Elphin house – 24 Anzac Avenue• The Glennie School – 246A-248 Herries Street• St Mary’s College – 129 West Street• Kerrilaw building – within St Ursula’s College, 38 Taylor Street• World War II huts –2-14 Fanny Street• St Rest house – 3 Gladstone Street
Acknowledgement: Sketches by Ivan McDonald. Thanks to residents and contributors for preparing the text.
Commence the walk at the park’s entrance arch in Lindsay Street.
Alfred Thomas memorial - The Alfred Thomas Memorial (see image on right) was erected in memory of Alfred Thomas, who had been the supervisor of the Southern and Western Railways in the 1870s. His drowning in Sydney Harbour in 1881 shocked the local community, who donated the money to build this memorial. The structure was originally located on the corner of Margaret and Ruthven streets but was relocated during the 1890s. Wander around and enjoy this formal garden area and then walk to Campbell Street to view the next site.
77 Campbell Street and 94 Campbell Street - While walking down Campbell Street, don’t miss the beautiful Spanish Mission style house at no. 77 called Casa Mara. This style was popular in the 1920s and 30s. Kimblehurst at 94 Campbell Street was owned at one time by Mr BJ Beirne, who became the city’s first Toowoomba-born mayor.
91 Campbell Street - Claremont at 91 Campbell Street was built around 1905 with a coach house and stables at the back. It has elaborate iron lacework around its bull-nosed verandah. Continue down Campbell Street noting the many historic homes, bluestone kerbing and mature camphor laurel (Cinnamomum camphora) street trees.Turn left into Hume Street.
Eleanor Street - Hume Street runs along the western edge of Queens Park. The two streets on the left side are thought to have been named after the Godsall family. The father, Richard, and two sons were former mayors of the city. Eleanor Street is particularly interesting because it is lined with palm trees marking an earlier entrance to the Botanic Gardens. Eleanor Godsall, Richard’s wife, was later married to Alexander Mayes who was Mayor of Toowoomba in 1896, the year Eleanor died.Continue along Hume Street and turn left into Margaret Street.
Vera Lacaze Park cnr Hume and Margaret streets -Vera Lacaze Park is on the corner of Hume and Margaret Streets. With its well-laid out gardens and fountains in 1960s style, it recognises the contribution of Vera Lacaze, who was the first woman elected to the Toowoomba City Council and who served on Council from 1952-62.
121 Margaret Street - No. 121 Margaret Street, on the north-western corner of Margaret and Hume streets, was formerly the Canberra Private Hotel. It was built and operated by the Temperance Society and became the place to stay. Many retirees from the land made the hotel their permanent address. As times changed the hotel was converted to a motel, and it continued in that capacity until it was sold to the Grain Growers Association about c. 1970. It is now used as offices and known as Canberra Place.Cross Margaret Street to view the next site.
124 Margaret Street - The first section of the Technical College, on the southeastern corner of Hume and Margaret streets, was completed in 1912. Mr Alexander Mayes, who was also the president of the Technical College, was the successful tenderer at £7,000. The front façade of the building features brown glazed bricks known as ‘brown teapot bricks’ which were specially imported from Yorkshire, England and may be the only example of these unique bricks in Queensland. The other bricks and the sandstone used in this building are of Australian, mostly local, design.
106 Margaret Street - At the corner of Margaret and Burstow streets are East Creek Park, the Boer War Memorial Gateway and the Mothers’ Memorial. When the gaol was converted for use as the Austral Hall, the building was dedicated as a memorial to those who served in the Boer War. The Austral Hall was later demolished and some bricks from the hall were used to construct the memorial gateway. Refer to item 14 also.
The Mothers’ Memorial was originally constructed in Margaret Street, near the intersection with Ruthven Street, and officially unveiled by the State Governor on 28 January 1922.
100 Margaret Street - The fine, two storey, verandah fronted building at 100 Margaret Street was built c. 1910 as a residence for the father of Fred Crook-King, a well-known Toowoomba photographer.
96 & 94 Margaret Street -Two delightful Edwardian Era buildings exist at 96 and 94 Margaret Street. No. 96 houses a café and no. 94 the Repertory Theatre. Both buildings feature curved bay windows and picturesque roofs.
92 Margaret Street -No. 92 Margaret Street was originally the hospital for the women’s gaol. Today it houses a café.
90 Margaret Street -DeMolay at 90 Margaret Street was the 1864 Court House which was converted to a women’s reformatory in 1882. It was adjacent to the gaol walls. The gaol covered the area now occupied by the Park Motor Inn. You can still see the solitary confinement cell beneath the rear of no. 90. After the closure of the gaol, the building was used for the annual science contest held in conjunction with the Austral Festival. It later became Rutlands Guest House and was purchased in 1967 by the DeMolay Order. Cross Margaret Street, opposite the Park Motor Inn, to a path leading into the park and the Richard Ross Harding commemorative avenue of trees. Continue up Margaret Street.
Cross Lindsay Street to view the next site.
Queens Park Toowoomba Historical Society - The Toowoomba Historical Society occupies the building beside Queens Park Gardens. Opening times are indicated on the outside of the building. While you are in the area, consider visiting the Cobb & Co Museum café at 21-27 Lindsay Street.
Acknowledgement: Thanks to Beris Broderick for assistance in compiling the information and sourcing illustrations from the Toowoomba Historical Society Inc. and Bob Dansie.
The cultural and legal precinct is bounded by Margaret, Neil, Herries and Ruthven streets, an area rich in history of institutions on which the cultural, spiritual, legal and social life of the city is founded.
Allow approximately 45 minutes at a brisk pace and longer at a leisurely pace to complete this walk.
Commence the walk at the former Post Office building at 136 Margaret Street.
142 Margaret Street, former Court House - The Court House (see image above) was built in 1878, replacing the former court house at 90 Margaret Street, now named DeMolay. The new court house was also designed by government architect FDG Stanley in the Classical Revival style, and was built by John Garget. Of interest is the annex in Neil Street, which is of later construction and made of Helidon sandstone. It was in the court house that George Essex Evans worked in his capacity as registrar of births, deaths and marriages.Turn left into Neil Street.
50 Neil Street, police station complex - In 1866, the colonial government built police barracks on this site to replace the police station on the south side of Russell Street, west of Ruthven Street. The present building designed by government architect RC Nowland, dates from 1936. It is of historic interest as one of four substantial brick buildings erected by “relief workers” during the depression of the 1930s to provide employment. Other buildings are the schools at North, South and East Toowoomba.
51 Neil Street, St Stephen’s Uniting Church - Across the road is St. Stephen’s Uniting Church (see image on right) . This former Presbyterian Church was established in 1863 in a wooden building in James Street. In 1884 the congregation moved to this building designed by James Marks and built by James Renwick. A fire extensively damaged the building in 1989 but it was lovingly restored.
54 Neil Street, the Empire Theatre complex: Wesley Uniting Church, Armitage Centre, Empire Theatre - The Empire Theatre Complex. The Armitage Centre, a contemporary ‘black box’ flexible performance space, was designed by James Cubitt Architects. Built in 2014 by Hutchinson Builders, it contrasts with both the adjoining Wesley Church Theatre and the Art Deco Empire Theatre.
The former Wesley Methodist Church (see image on left), later Wesley Uniting Church, was built in 1877 by Richard Godsall to a Gothic Revival design by the Brisbane architect Willoughby Powell, who also designed the Town Hall. The Wesley Theatre has significant stained glass panels by Ashwin and Falconer.The original Empire Theatre was built in 1911 by a group who had been showing ‘moving pictures’ in the Austral Hall from 1907. The Empire was designed to present both vaudeville and motion pictures until it burnt down in 1932. The north and south walls remained standing and were incorporated into the rebuilt Art Deco theatre, used as a picture theatre until the early 1970s. During the mid-1990s the theatre was refurbished and reopened as a performance venue in 1997 as Australia’s largest regional theatre.
58 Neil Street, Masonic Temple - The Masonic Temple was built by James Renwick and was completed in 1886. It was set well back to allow for a circular driveway from Neil Street so the gentlemen of the Masonic fraternity could be driven to the door. There was a paddock provided where horses and carriages could be safely left during meetings. Augustus Charles Gregory, a distinguished gentleman, noted explorer and engineer (whose residence was Harlaxton House), was the Grand Master in the 1880s.Turn right into Herries Street.
152 Herries Street, St Lukes Anglican Church - James Renwick constructed the first stage of St Luke’s Anglican Church by 1897. The traditional Gothic Revival design by diocesan architect John Hingeston Buckeridge replaced an earlier timber slab building constructed in the mid-1850s. The eastern end of the building including the northern transept and chancel, designed by Charles Beresford Marks, was completed by 1959. Adjacent to the church, facing Ruthven Street, is the church hall built in 1911 to a distinctive Harry Marks design.Turn right into Ruthven Street and continue down the eastern (right) side.
149 Herries Street, Soldiers Memorial Hall - The Soldiers’ Memorial Hall was erected in three stages: 1923-24, 1930-31 and 1957-59 as a memorial to the participation, and loss, of members of the Toowoomba community in WWI and later wars. Local architectural firm Hodgen & Hodgen designed all three stages of the building. Features of the interior include a memorial vestibule, honour rolls, offices and meeting, recreation and dining rooms as well as a former dance hall.
541-543 Ruthven Street, City Hall - A School of Arts building established on this City Hall site in 1861 was replaced with a more substantial building in 1877. This second building was demolished due to a fire in 1898 and the Town Hall was erected in 1900 by builder Alexander Mayes to a Willoughby Powell design. This design didn’t include a clock and this feature was added as work progressed. A School of Arts library and a Technical College were included on the first floor and various Council offices were located on the ground floor.From 1937 to 1994 the art gallery was also housed at this site. On the western end of the building is a theatre which has been used for cultural and social events. This section has undergone more changes than any other part of the building. Renovations have occurred in the 1940s, 1970s and 2016.
525-529 Ruthven Street, Regional Art Gallery - The Toowoomba Art Gallery was established in 1937, making it Queensland’s oldest public regional art gallery. The present building, designed by Allom Lovell Marquis-Kyle, was opened in 1994. The southern section had formerly been offices for the Toowoomba Electric Light and Power Co. The old building was adapted for re-use and a contemporary wing added as Council’s good example of maintaining community buildings with strong heritage values. The Art Gallery Park is designed around the aboriginal theme ‘Sacred Journey Home’. Kwong Sang Walk, completed in 2015, recognises the contribution of the Chinese community.Lanes off Ruthven Street have large murals painted as part of the First Coat Festival.
451-455 Ruthven Street, Alexandra Building - The Alexandra building was constructed by James Renwick to a design by prominent Toowoomba architect Henry James (Harry) Marks (1871-1939) for local caterer and businessman, Thomas Kelsall Lamb (1856-1913). The building has a decorative three-gabled face-brick parapet with the words ‘Alexandra Building’ in honour of the Queen, wife of Britain’s King Edward VII. It originally comprised an upper floor banquet/concert hall and pre-dated Toowoomba’s Austral Hall on the old Toowoomba gaol site and also the Empire Theatre. The Alexandra hall opened in 1902 with a seating capacity of 2200.
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The Alexandra Building, a two-storey masonry building in Ruthven Street Toowoomba, was constructed in 1902 to a design by prominent Toowoomba architect Henry James (Harry) Marks (1871-1939) for local businessman Thomas Kelsall Lamb. Marks also designed a 1905 extension at the rear of the building. The building originally comprised a banquet/concert hall on the upper floor and two retail spaces on the lower floor.
By the end of the nineteenth century, Toowoomba had established its position as the administrative and commercial centre of the Darling Downs, one of the first regions to be settled in Queensland. Squatters entered the rich pastoral region even before Moreton Bay was opened for free settlement in 1842 and by the mid-1860s Toowoomba had eclipsed its main rival, Warwick, as the largest town on the Downs. Located on the main route to Brisbane, it was a conduit for produce being hauled to the coast and the main source of supplies for the western pastoralists. By 1891, Toowoomba contained nearly twenty per cent of the population of the Downs.
As Toowoomba developed, a commercial centre emerged in the blocks bounded by Russell, Ruthven and Margaret streets. In the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century, Ruthven Street was redeveloped with substantial masonry buildings and its pre-eminence as the centre of the city was confirmed with the construction of the third Town Hall in Ruthven Street in 1900. The Alexandra Building, erected in Ruthven Street between Russell and Margaret streets in 1902, contributed to the consolidation of this street as the city centre.
The Alexandra Building was constructed for TK Lamb and Co., a well-established Toowoomba firm of confectioners and pastry cooks. Lamb had operated from at least two previous premises in Ruthven Street as a confectioner, baker and caterer with associated refreshment rooms, since 1885. Lamb also had a separate bake-house in Bell Street and a second confectionery shop in another part of Toowoomba. Like many merchants in Toowoomba, TK Lamb and Co. supplied not only the town of Toowoomba but the Downs and many other parts of western Queensland through a very successful mail order business selling hams, small goods, dressed poultry and Christmas cakes. In the 1890s and early 1900s he also conducted a drapery business, TK Lamb & Co. (The Busy Drapers), in addition to his catering, confectionery and baking concerns.
In 1901 TK Lamb acquired title to the Ruthven Street site of the future Alexandra Building and engaged HJ (Harry) Marks to design a building incorporating street-level shops and a hire-hall for balls, banquets and other large public functions such as public meetings, wedding receptions, parties and concerts. In addition he planned to build a new, modern cake factory and bakery at the rear of the building.
Harry Marks was one of a family firm of architects which had a lasting effect on the appearance of Toowoomba, being responsible for a large number of the city's public, private and commercial buildings. Born and trained in Toowoomba, he entered into partnership with his father James, in 1892. James Marks arrived in Queensland in 1866 and first set up a practice in Dalby, moving to Toowoomba in 1874. As James Marks and Son, Harry and his father dominated the architectural profession for more than half a century. Although Harry spent his entire career in Toowoomba and was responsible for designing many buildings on the Darling Downs, including Rodway and St Luke's Church Hall, he also designed St James Parish Hall at Coorparoo and another Roman Catholic Church at Bulimba in Brisbane. His brother Reginald joined the practice in 1910. Harry was made an associate of the Queensland Institute of Architects in 1925 and a Fellow in 1929. His son, Charles Beresford Marks, became a partner in 1925.
Harry Marks was described as being ‘gifted with inventive genius’. He was particularly interested in providing good ventilation and natural lighting and these are features of buildings designed by him. He devised and patented a number of architectural elements, including roof ventilators, a reversible casement window which provides optimum directional ventilation and a method of stucco wall construction using a hollow wall to give the appearance of a solid wall, but cheaper to construct than brickwork.
The Alexandra Building was completed in 1902 by Toowoomba builder James Renwick. Various sub-contractors worked on the building including Wheatcroft and Co. (painters), TS Burstow (fittings) and Keogh and Co. (suppliers of the dining tables and other furniture). Its construction reflected local confidence in the continued prosperity of Toowoomba and the surrounding district during a period of widespread drought. It spanned two allotments and had a prominent two-storey frontage to Ruthven Street, considered ‘uncommon and particularly striking’ at the time, with an upper floor verandah with cast-iron balustrade, over the street pavement, and a decorative three-gabled face-brick parapet with the words "Alexandra Hall" in relief on the middle gable. The building was named in honour of Queen Alexandra, wife of Edward VII of Britain and of Australia. Edward had succeeded to the throne following the death of his mother, Queen Victoria, in January 1901 and the coronation of Edward and Alexandra was conducted in August 1902 around the time that TK Lamb's new building was opened.
The ground floor was divided into two shops, each 100 ft (30.5m) long by 30 ft (9.1m) wide, with plate-glass front display windows. The ceilings were high and additional natural lighting was provided from high-level windows in the front and rear elevations. The northern shop was occupied initially by GP Merry's Drapery Emporium. The southern shop was occupied by TK Lamb and Co.'s Cafe Alexandra, which had counters and fittings in oak-grained pine, including a timber screen which separated the shop at the front from a dining room, being 63 ft (19.2m) by 30 ft, at the rear, capable of seating 180-200 persons. Kitchens, pantries, storehouses and out-buildings were located beyond the dining room.
The Alexandra Hall, which occupied the entire first floor, was accessed via a 7 ft (2.1m) wide timber staircase from a separate entrance off Ruthven Street, located between the two shop fronts. It was a high space, 60 ft (18.2m) wide by 100 ft (30.5m) deep, lit by windows in the Ruthven Street and rear elevations, and six large lantern lights in the roof. At night the hall was lit by gaslights with ’beautiful multi-coloured globes’. Reputedly the hall was capable of seating 900 persons, and when first opened seats for 600 were provided. Facilities included cloakrooms, dressing-rooms and water closets.
Four staircases led from the hall to front and rear verandahs, 12 ft (3.6m) and 8 ft (2.4m) wide respectively. These were located 4 ft (1.2m) below the level of the hall, so that the retail spaces below were lit from windows front and rear, between the floor levels of the hall and verandahs. Another staircase led directly to the Café Alexandra dining room below, which could function as a supper room during concerts or other entertainments.
According to The Queenslander of 20 December 1902 construction of the hall supplied a much-felt want in Toowoomba, demonstrated by the almost continuous use of the hall in the first few months of opening. Toowoomba had lacked a large public assembly hall, and the Alexandra Hall's Ruthven Street location, in the centre of Toowoomba, made it especially attractive as a venue. The Alexandra Hall post-dated Toowoomba's third Toowoomba City Hall, constructed in 1900 in Ruthven Street on the site of the former Toowoomba School of Arts (destroyed by fire in 1898), but the City Hall theatre, with a seating capacity of 789, had a raked floor and could not accommodate banquets or dances. The Alexandra Hall pre-dated Toowoomba's Austral Hall, a large structure erected in 1904 by the Austral Association on the site of the Old Toowoomba Gaol in Margaret Street. It also pre-dated the Empire Theatre in Neil Street, which opened in June 1911 with a seating capacity of 2,200.
The Cafe Alexandra was said to be a great success and the Alexandra Hall was popular for dances, concerts and banquets. According to the Darling Downs Gazette rarely a night passed that it was not occupied. The venture proved so successful that in 1905 TK Lamb & Co. erected additions to the rear of the building, comprising a pavilion 32 ft (9.75m) by 26 ft (7.9m) and a promenade balcony. The pavilion was accessed via a flight of stairs from the Café Alexandra on the ground floor, and could be used as a supper-room, banquet hall, or meeting room. The ceiling was of pressed metal and the room was lit by reversible casements (recently patented by Harry Marks). The promenade balcony was located at the rear of the pavilion.
In 1913 Thomas Kelsall Lamb died, and the title to the property was transferred to trustees: Queensland Trustees Ltd and Lamb's two sons, Arthur Kelsall Lamb and Herbert William Lamb. In 1947 title was transferred to TK Lamb & Co. Pty Ltd (TK Lamb Estates Pty Ltd from 1949).
A number of long-term tenants occupied the building. JM Harris (draper) occupied the northern shop from 1906 until 1935. In 1938 Gold Radio Service and 4GR broadcasting moved into the building, where they remained until the 1970s. The upstairs hall appears to have been sub-divided and used for offices by the late 1930s, but the Café Alexandra continued to operate on the lower floor.
Sometime between 1937 and 1943 the front verandah was removed and replaced by a cantilevered street awning, in line with a municipal policy that verandahs and street awnings supported on posts be removed as a road safety measure. Below the parapet the front of the building was rendered and painted when the verandah was removed. About this time the lettering on the building appears to have changed from ‘Alexandra Hall’ to ‘Alexandra Building’.
In 1973 title to the property was transferred from TK Lamb Estates Pty Ltd to the Master Builders Permanent Building and Bowkett Society. The Café Alexandra appears to have closed about this time.
When Brian Hodgen, grandson of well-known Toowoomba architect William Hodgen, purchased the building at auction in 1976, it housed Palmers Silk Centre, McKinstry and Somerville trading as Chas Sankey Fraser (optometrists), and Music Houses of Australia trading as Palings on the ground floor. The first floor was unoccupied. Brian Hodgen conducted his architectural practice, Hodgen & Hall, from the first floor space, later practising with his son as Hodgen and Hodgen Architects.
Acknowledgement: Historical information provided by Eleanor Cullen
433-437 Ruthven Street, Harrison Printing Building - A new, purpose-built Harrison Printing building with strong Scottish Arts and Crafts influence was designed for Mark Harrison in 1912 by architect William Hodgen and built by William Penhallurick. In 1906, printers Robert Weston and Mark Harrison dissolved their partnership and the Harrison Printing Co was established, continuing for decades. Mark Harrison had learned his trade at the Darling Downs Gazette’s office and had worked with printer Job E. Stone, Toowoomba’s mayor in 1909. Cross Ruthven Street to the former Bank of NSW building.
431 Ruthven Street, Bank of NSW Building - In 1940-41, during a nationwide Bank of New South Wales building program, Helidon sandstone was used in the construction of this building in Victorian Free Classic Revival style. The Bank of NSW, Toowoomba’s first bank, was located south of the current building in a timber house with slate roof from 1860. Its manager, RHD White, was instrumental in providing the infant Municipality of Toowoomba with bridging finance until rates could be collected.
456-460 Ruthven Street, White Horse Hotel - The White Horse Hotel façade can be viewed from the old Bank of NSW. A hotel was established on this site in 1866 and replaced by the present two-storey brick building which was erected in several phases with the ornate façade completed by 1912. This upgrade is thought to have been designed by Reginald Marks who worked in a Toowoomba architectural firm with his father, James and brother, Harry. The façade included a deep verandah which was removed in the early 1950s to comply with council regulations to remove verandah posts and provide tie-suspended metal awnings. The hotel continued trading until 1986.Retrace your steps back across Ruthven Street and continue along the southern (right) side of Margaret Street.
209-215 Margaret Street, Niddrie House - Niddrie House takes its name from Niddrie Marischal House four miles from central Edinburgh, Scotland and home to the Wauchope family until 1944. The Toowoomba building was occupied in the 1930s-40s by L. L’Armand Fruiterer & Milk Bar, YWCA rest rooms, outfitters and dry cleaners.
178-180 Margaret Street, Tattersall’s Hotel - Tattersall’s Hotel was built by Richard Godsall in 1883 to a design by James Marks for Austin Carigg. The two storey brick hotel featured cedar joinery and a five stall stable. Across the street was TG Robinson & Co’s Tattersall’s horse bazaar. This was a major commercial enterprise in the last half of the 19th century and the street served as a thoroughfare for beasts on the way to and from market. For at least one day a year, horses for auction were paraded and prospective buyers gathered on the hotel balcony to make their bid.Cross Neil Street.
40 Neil Street, Strand Theatre - The Strand theatre is the longest continually operating purpose-built cinema in Queensland. In 1914, James Newman, owner of the corner Crown Hotel, opened the Crystal Palace Picture Gardens next to his hotel on the site of the present Strand theatre. Toowoomba’s first Congregational Church, 1864-1889, had formerly occupied the site. Originally unroofed, the theatre catered for 1000 patrons for movies, boxing and concerts. In 1915 Mr Newman built the New Crystal Palace Theatre and lessee Senora Spencer renamed it The Strand. In the early 1930s Birch, Carroll and Coyle took over and, with the building owners, arranged a redesign in Art Deco for the theatre’s interior. Architect, Guy Crick, used fan shapes as the dominant motif seen in the wall friezes. The Cinema 4 complex was opened in 1992.
On 15 May 1864 Toowoomba’s first Congregational Church opened on the NW corner of Margaret and Neil Streets. In 1889 after years of disuse it was sold and Frederick Buss built a hotel on the site.
In 1902 William Smith, previously licensee of the Union Hotel, built a new hotel on the site which he named the Crown.
On 21 January 1914 James Newman, an Alderman of the Toowoomba City Council and owner of the Crown Hotel, opened the Crystal Palace Picture Gardens next to his hotel on the site of the present Strand Theatre. It catered for 1000 patrons and in addition to showing movies, boxing and concerts were also staged there. Reservations could be made at Palings: Deck Chairs 1/6, Folding Chairs 1/-, Gallery 6d.
Realising that he had competition from the newly constructed Empire Theatre and in 1915 Mr. Newman built a new Crystal Theatre on the site and extended the Crown Hotel to provide rooms above the theatre. It had a solid masonry facade with marble facings and on the front of the building there was to be a large monogram “S.T.” in front of the projecting biograph box set with no fewer than 44 coloured lights. There was also a female figure set in a niche and holding a globe of light. Additionally, there were leadlight windows featuring vines and red flowers.
Renovations were almost complete when it was announced that Senora Spencer would lease the theatre and name it the Strand like her theatres in Brisbane and Newcastle.
The first performance in the greatly renovated theatre took place on 15 April 1916 with the opening ceremony performed by the Mayor Al McWaters. The program included a film ‘The Men who made Australia’ featuring footage of the ANZACs and the Gallipoli campaign and also Mary Pickford in her famous movie ‘Rags’, with appropriate accompaniment from the Strand Symphony Orchestra. The event was such a success that ‘hundreds were turned away’.
Senora Spencer gave up the lease in 1918 which was taken over by Union Theatres but the theatre was closed for a few weeks in early 1919 because of the influenza epidemic during which it was re-painted and decorated.
The death of JP Newman, “former licensee of the Crown Hotel and member of the CID”, was announced on 8 June 1930 and he was buried on 9 June 1930.
In the latter part of the 1920s Mr Bushby operated the theatre for several years until the lease expired in 1929 when he shifted operations to the Princess Theatre in Russell Street. Plans were in hand for the installation of ‘talkie’ equipment and the promise that films would come direct from the Regent in Brisbane.
In the early 1930s Birch, Carroll and Coyle took over and with the major rebuilding of the Empire going on after the fire in 1933, the owners of the Strand and BCC arranged a redesign for the theatre’s interior.
The architect selected was Guy Crick and the work was completed for a re-opening in early December – a couple of weeks after the opening of the Empire. While the renovations were going on, screenings continued.
Crick’s design featured fan shapes as the dominant motif clearly seen in the wall friezes. The shape is repeated in the wall lighting fixtures while two ceiling lights shaped like inverted pagodas adorned the ceiling. These were removed in 1942 for fear of air raids and never replaced. Above the proscenium was a large design of a rising sun with ram’s horns on each side. A deep blue curtain with a stripe of gold was effectively lit by trough lighting.
The mid to late 1930s were the golden age of the Strand with musicals, westerns and dramas featuring stars like Shirley Temple, Errol Flynn and Bing Crosby. The theatres catchphrase was “Always first with the latest and greatest”; and during Toowoomba winters “as warm as your own fireside.”
In 1937 the old building adjacent to the Strand was demolished to make way for two new buildings providing office accommodation on the ground floor but permitted the extension of the first floor of the theatre’s lounge and manager’s office. Later still, an awning was added to protect people queuing from the elements.
After almost 40 years BCC left the Strand which was taken over by the Sourris family. More alterations followed to the entrance and more seats were installed in the Dress Circle, new lighting replaced the fan-shaped ones and some of the proscenium’s border frieze was lost when it was widened.
The theatre is the longest continually operating purpose-built cinema in Queensland and was placed on the Heritage list in 1990.
The Cinema 4 complex was opened in 1992 retaining most of the heritage features while introducing more theatres and choice.
On January 24 1917 Mrs. Emma Miller, often called “the mother of the Labor movement” died in Toowoomba. The report in the Toowoomba Chronicle of January 25 indicated that she died at the Crown Hotel where she had been staying. There is a monument to Mrs Miller in the Queen’s Park Gardens where she spoke to her supporters on the day before she died.
Acknowledgement: Historical research provided by Eleanor Cullen.
Acknowledgement: Thanks to Bob Dansie, Eleanor Cullen, Pat Murphy and Michael Scott for preparing the text.
From the Information Centre the cycleway is used to approach and leave this historic area.
82-86 James Street, Toowoomba Information Centre - Start the walk at the Guide to Toowoomba map. To the rear of the centre pass between a large swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and a tall eucalypt. Notice two tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera) and a mature camphor laurel (Cinnamomum camphora) as you make your way to cross at the James Street lights.
54 Kitchener Street, cycle path - This street, named after King James I of England, was once Toowoomba’s main thoroughfare and where our first town hall was sited. Bullock teams were a common sight on their way to and from the coast before the coming of the railway in 1867. Follow the cycle path beside East Creek with its willows (Salix babylonica) and swamp cypresses.
Trees - Cross Mary Street. Here a large she-oak (Casuarina) overhangs the creek. Among the trees in the small park opposite are three chestnut-leaved oaks (Quercus castaneifolia), also found in Horton Street and a carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua).
Horton Street entrance - Enter Horton Street, named after one of Toowoomba’s colourful characters, William Horton, nicknamed Bill the Fiver because of his love of gambling. His origin is somewhat obscure but it seems that, at the age of thirteen, he was transported as a convict for stealing a coat. In 1847 he built the original Bull’s Head Inn, Drayton and the current building in 1859. Horton made many investments in Toowoomba prior to his death in 1864 at the age of 47.
15 Horton Street - No. 15, a Victorian Era house, was built between 1890 and 1918.
14 Horton Street - Houses at no. 5 and no. 15 Horton Street are of a similar age.
69 Herries Street - There has been a shop at 69 Herries Street since the late 1800s. In 1925 it was a saddlery owned by William Wood.
67 Herries Street - No. 67 Herries Street, built 1897/8 is typical of Toowoomba’s early timber cottages; four roomed, symmetrical, with a pyramid shaped galvanised iron roof and front verandah. It featured in the TV program ‘Who’s Been Sleeping in My House’. In the early 20th century it was one of the city’s lying-in hospitals where women gave birth with the assistance of a mid-wife. The mid-wife for many years was Cecilia Lea, whose first husband, cab driver James Anderson, was killed aged 34 years. The vehicle in which he was taking tourists on a sight-seeing drive overturned near Gabbinbar. His widow and two young children were given this house, purchased with money raised in a public appeal.
60 Herries Street - Glenroy at 60 Herries Street is over 100 years old. This was the home of Robert Gordon Cousins, manager of Wyeth’s hardware store from 1900 until his death in 1913 at the age of 43. His widow Lottie died in 1966 at the age of 86. The cast iron balustrade (see image on right) is original.
61 Herries Street, Entrance to Paddington Estate - Cross Herries Street to enter the Paddington Estate, now part of the Caledonian Estate. John Watts owned the 20 acres (8 hectares) prior to its subdivision into an unusual pattern of streets and narrow lanes. He had been part-owner of Eton Vale station and was Minister for Public Works when the railway to Toowoomba was opened.Now named DeMolay, the Court House was at 90 Margaret Street when the advertisement (below), complete with errors, appeared in the Darling Downs Gazette.The paper later reported that the attendance at the sale was ‘very large’ and the bidding ‘highly spirited throughout’. The corner lots in Margaret and Herries Streets fetched the highest prices - £35 to £40.
39 Herries Street – Toowoomba Grammar School - Mary Street was originally called Park Street as the land on which the Toowoomba Grammar School now stands was the original Queens Park until 1875 when the school was established. Towards the Margaret Street end is a large retaining wall made of basalt. This volcanic material came from local quarries and was used extensively for kerbing that gives character to Toowoomba’s oldest areas.
143 Mary Street - No. 143 Mary Street, once named Maida, is a Queensland bungalow. This modest home with its gabled front is from the Inter-War Era of the 1920s and 30s. The small verandah has been enclosed.
141 Mary Street - Council minutes from May 1871 record that ‘the well for the Paddington Estate should be sunk at the junction of Pitt and Park streets’. Before turning into George Street note Cronulla at 135 Mary Street, an early house more elaborate than the cottage style and with one projecting front room with a decorated gable. Its bay window and banded chimneys with contrasting string courses are attractive features.
137 Mary Street – George Street streetscape - From here the view directly west shows the landmark two-storeyed St Mary’s College, West Street. Its original 1899 building was designed by Toowoomba architect William Hodgen Jnr. George Street contains a mix of early, Inter-War and more recent houses.
8 George Street - In 1900, no. 8 was the home of a sawyer, William McMullen. The four room cottage was the only house on this side of the street at that time. From 1917 the resident was Elizabeth McMullen, one of the first Toowoomba women to have the right to vote in the 1917 election. She was a nurse and the house was another lying-in hospital.
84 Lindsay Street - At Lindsay Street turn left. No. 84, named Paddington, was designed by William Hodgen Jnr in 1899 for Robert Bruce, a member of a well-known Toowoomba family of stonemasons.
88 Lindsay Street - Lindsay Street, between Margaret and Herries streets, was originally named Lutwyche Street after Judge Alfred Lutwyche who presided at many trials in Toowoomba and was noted for his courtroom humour. No. 88, built in 1888, was recently given the original street name. The intact metal window hoods are of an unusual design.
90 Lindsay Street - At 90 Lindsay Street, there was a four room cottage in 1904 with a kitchen added by 1906, the property value then being £36. The traditional style guttering features acroteria (an architectural ornament placed on a flat base and mounted at the corner of a roof).Opposite is a large red cedar tree (Toona ciliata), an outstanding asset of the Caledonian Estate.
92 Lindsay Street - No. 92 is one of six Queensland bungalows from the Inter-War Era. Its fence and winding path have been carefully designed to reflect the original period character.
82A Herries Street - Turning right into Herries Street with its avenue of camphor laurel trees, notice the hall numbered 82A, currently used by the Table Tennis Association. At one time this was Coddington’s Wood Depot.
85 Herries Street - No. 85 is a building from the Edwardian Era featuring original cast iron balustrading, frieze and window hood.
Trees - Two large London plane trees (Platanus x acerifolia), known locally as The Sentinels, are landmarks on the southern side of the bridge. One can be seen on the cover of this brochure. They are at least 100 years old and at one time shaded a horse trough.
Cycleway back to James Street - Cross at the lights and follow the cycleway beneath the willows back to James Street. The bluestone bridge you have just crossed, designed by Council engineer, the late Murray Clewett, is a more modern example of the use of local basalt and features on the cover.Along the creek look out for black ducks, red wattlebirds, blue-faced honeyeaters, noisy miners and perhaps a white-faced heron fishing in the shallows. The cycleway follows Kitchener Street, called East Street until 1916 when it was renamed in honour of the World War I field marshal.
108 Kitchener Street - After crossing James Street, you may like to rest on a picnic seat provided near the beginning of the walk. Chinese gardens providing vegetables for the local market once stretched along the creek banks.
Acknowledgement: Thanks to Ivan McDonald for the map and architectural sketches; Eleanor & Peter Cullen, Beris Broderick and John Clements for the historical and botanical information.
Settlers from the south arrived on the Darling Downs in 1840 after the explorer, Allan Cunningham, found the rich plains in 1827. A settlement commenced at 'The Springs' when an enterprising 20 year old adventurer, set up a business selling his wares on Westbrook Creek, after being chased off several other properties. It is believed that this adventurer was Stephen Mehan (Meehan), later to become the owner of Thomas Alford's Downs Hotel and store.
Early settlers from Moreton Bay and Ipswich, having traversed the torturous Gorman's Gap route, rested both man and beast at the water hole later to become 'The Springs'. Noting the increasing traffic through the Springs, Thomas Alford, the earliest settler in the area, built a house and general store here in 1842, becoming the first official storekeeper. He named his house St Audries (the name of his father's church in England) and the town after his home village, Drayton, in Somerset. Alford obtained a license to sell alcohol from his store in 1844, after which it became known as The Downs Inn. In 1846 this inn was transferred to Stephen Mehan. Thomas Alford built another house and store, that incorporated the first post office on the Darling Downs, opening on 1 January 1846.
Begin your journey at The Royal Bull's Head Inn, 59 Brisbane St, which was built by William Horton in 1859 but now stands as a museum. The original inn, constructed in 1847 in slab and shingle style, stood on the southern side of the present building. Remnants of the original kitchen can still be seen on the side wall of the attached kitchen. As a meeting place for locals and travellers alike there were many outbuildings including stables, extra accommodation and possibly a saddlery and a blacksmith shop. Richard Lynch purchased the inn in 1879 and it became a family home, 'The Terrace', until the National Trust bought it in 1974. Walk around the grounds and read the interpretive signs displayed.
The museum is open on the first Sunday of the month, 10am – 4pm and Wednesdays from 10am to 2pm.
Park your car here and proceed on foot to sights 2 to 8.
Continue south along Brisbane St to the Memorial to Arthur Hoey Davis – better known as Steele Rudd author of 'On Our Selection'. Davis was born at Drayton, the eighth child and fifth son in a family of 13 children. His father took up a selection at Emu Creek and Davis was educated at the local school. Davis published a long series of stories based on his father's experiences producing the 'On Our Selection' series. During his last years he had to struggle to make a living. He died in Brisbane in 1935.
Turn right into Darling St and cross the road to the school. Block A was constructed in 1920. The school depicted in this photo was further up the hill to your right. Drayton National School commenced in 1851 being the third school established in, what is now, Queensland. The first building was a 'slabs and bark' construction accommodating up to 50 pupils.
Head back down Darling St. The view across the highway up the hill shows where some of the original buildings of Drayton were erected. To the left in the creek would have been where Mehan's Well, Flanagan's Well and the Public Springs were situated. On the right hand side you can see Shepperd St (once Stephen St) which was the address for the Catholic Church, the Darling Downs Gazette, the Police Station and the Court House. Mehan's Store was on Peel St, about where the Woolworths store now stands.
You also pass the police station, built in 1981 on the site of the old station erected in 1915. That building was moved to the north-western corner of Rudd and Glennie Streets.The Drayton Stations were closed and reopened a number of times over the years but re-opened in 1930 for the last time and remains open to this day.
Continue along Brisbane St to number 11. 'Arranmore', which sat on several acres of land, was built for John Hehir and his wife Mary (Boland) around 1900. It comprised four rooms, front and side verandahs and had a steeply pitched roof. The kitchen, as was the practice then, was detached from the house. Their daughter, Annie, was a teacher at South Girls School from 1932 to1950 and their son, Michael, was the last Hehir to live in the house. When he died in 1979 the property was subdivided.
Cross over Brisbane St. to the park. View the Memorial to the soldiers from Drayton who lost their lives in the two World Wars. Across Luck St you can see many cottages built in the early to mid 20th century.
Retrace your steps to the Royal Bull's Head Inn and return to your car. Drive along Brisbane St, past Woolworths to Shepperd St (formerly Steven St) on your left. Drive up this street to view the sites of buildings mentioned next.
The first Catholic Church in Drayton was built in 1866 where you can see two trees. Father William Larkin was the first priest appointed to Drayton (1863 - 1866). Prior to the church being built, Mass was celebrated in the private homes of Catholic families and in the Town Hall. In December 1892 the church building was destroyed in a violent storm. The Catholic community immediately set to work to build a new church, the one you see in the photo, erected almost on the same site as the old one. It was consecrated and opened on 1 September 1895. The Priests from St Patrick’s Cathedral looked after the spiritual needs of the community until 1971 when it was transferred to the care of the St. Anthony’s community. Due to serious structural problems the church was closed in 1979 and sold for demolition. The Stations of the Cross, the Bell and the Plaque in memory of Archbishop Robert Dunne are held in the Toowoomba Diocesan Archives. While at this location, note the view back towards the school and the Royal Bull's Head Inn.
A Drayton Police Station was established prior to the inauguration of the Queensland Police Force in 1864, making it one of the oldest stations in the area. In 1858 the police station building comprised a courtroom, a lockup and the prisoner’s cells immediately adjoining the courtroom – an arrangement that was considered objectionable. The lockup was described to be in such a state of disrepair, that a number of prisoners managed to escape in 1857 and 1858 and it was reported in 1904 that one of the cells had a three square foot hole in its roof. By 1915 a new station was built in Brisbane St. This photograph shows the Police Station and second court house from 1867 to 1915 which occupied this site in Shepperd St. The building was demolished in 1979.
Return to the highway turning right. Turn left towards the school and then a sharp left into Brisbane St. This was the early road to Warwick. You will stop at the old wooden bridge where you can also view the fine specimens of pepperina and willow trees. These trees were introduced into Australia in the early days for shade and for the retention of the river banks.
Turn around and proceed along Rudd St to the left. At the corner of Cambooya St stands a cairn marking where the first St Matthew's Anglican Church stood. Rev. Benjamin Glennie had a parsonage in the block just north of this spot in which he took services until the church you see in the photo was built in 1859. By 1885 this church was too small for the congregation so the present church was built.
The present St Matthew's Church sits on the hill in front of you, but to get to it you need to retrace your steps to the highway, pass the inn, turn left into Colvin St, left into Glennie St then right into Beatrice St. This small, bluestone church was built in 1886/7 under the direction of architect, James Marks. It was built with a timber chancel to reduce costs. In 1933 extensive work was done to remove the old timber sanctuary and replace it in bluestone as originally intended. In 1987 the temporary timber vestry was replaced with masonry. If the church is open you can see a replica of the slab church in the back corner.
Continue along Beatrice St, past The Glebe Retirement Units and turn right into Cambooya St. At the end of the street you will come to the DownsSteam Rail Museum. The museum, a community based volunteer organisation dedicated to the establishment of a tourist railway, was established in 2001. It has developed over the years to now include a dining car, a 'Dreamtime' car depicting a day's passing in Aboriginal art and a range of historical items to view including the old Yuleba Railway Station.A 1914 locomotive built at the Toowoomba Foundry, a 1938 railmotor from Sydney and a 1956 diesel locomotive built in Maryborough are available for viewing. Opening times are from 9am to 3pm – Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
Content compiled by Helen Moloney, Les Rub, Graeme Ratcliffe, Beris Broderick and Deborah Theodosis from the National Trust of Australia (Queensland), Toowoomba Branch.
Location 7 photograph taken from Beris Broderick's book 'A History of Cottage Life in Toowoomba: 1860 - 1910'.